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Posts tagged Culinary History

Feb 21 '12
HISTORY OF CHEF AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER (1846-1935) Auguste Escoffier, was born in Villeneuve-Loubet,  France in 1846.   He is considered by many to be the father of modern day cuisine but is probably best known for having created the dessert Peach Melba for the singer Dame Nellie Melba.  However there is much more to this master chef. Prior to Escoffier, great chefs were only to be found in the kitchens of the nobility and royalty, but Escoffier was the first of the master chefs to work directly for the public, and was never employed in a private household. He started his career at the age of 12, when he entered into apprenticeship at his uncle’s restaurant in Nice, after which he went on to another apprenticeship in Paris at the age of 19. At that time Grande Cuisine was composed of very complicated recipes, the dishes being adorned with rich sauces and garnishes which somewhat obscured the main ingredients. However, Escoffier’s idea was to simplify these extravagant dishes - a trend which was taken up my the culinary world. He also changed the practice of serving all the dishes at the same time ( à la française) to serving each dish in the order printed on the menu (service à la russe). Whilst he was never employed directly by royalty or the nobility, his time at high-class hotels such as the Savoy,  The Carlton House and The Ritz, found him cooking for and praised by royalty, heads of states, and many celebrities and  in 1904, he even took charge of the kitchen on board The Imperator - a ship used by the German Imperial Family. It is reported that the Emperor of Germany was so impressed with the cuisine that he commented “I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of Chefs”. His general philosophy on food had more far-reaching effects, in particular with regards to hygiene and work standards, which he found to be very poor in general. At the time, chefs were not highly regarded and it was Escoffier who made the profession more respectable by instilling a sense of pride in his subordinates. He also started the brigade system in his kitchenswhich is the practice of each section in the kitchen being run by a chef de partie (section head chef). He was also one of the first of the master chefs to take a true interest in the nutritional value foods. Escoffier went on to write many articles and books on cooking, the most famous being Le Guide Culinaire and Ma Cuisine and in 1920, he was awarded the Legion of Honour for his services to French Cuisine. Escoffier died aged 89 on February 12th, 1935 but in gastronomy circles, his legend lives on with the values he brought to to the art of cooking still in practice today.

HISTORY OF CHEF AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER (1846-1935)

Auguste Escoffier, was born in Villeneuve-Loubet,  France in 1846.   He is considered by many to be the father of modern day cuisine but is probably best known for having created the dessert Peach Melba for the singer Dame Nellie Melba.  However there is much more to this master chef.

Prior to Escoffier, great chefs were only to be found in the kitchens of the nobility and royalty, but Escoffier was the first of the master chefs to work directly for the public, and was never employed in a private household. He started his career at the age of 12, when he entered into apprenticeship at his uncle’s restaurant in Nice, after which he went on to another apprenticeship in Paris at the age of 19.

At that time Grande Cuisine was composed of very complicated recipes, the dishes being adorned with rich sauces and garnishes which somewhat obscured the main ingredients. However, Escoffier’s idea was to simplify these extravagant dishes - a trend which was taken up my the culinary world. He also changed the practice of serving all the dishes at the same time ( à la française) to serving each dish in the order printed on the menu (service à la russe).

Whilst he was never employed directly by royalty or the nobility, his time at high-class hotels such as the Savoy,  The Carlton House and The Ritz, found him cooking for and praised by royalty, heads of states, and many celebrities and  in 1904, he even took charge of the kitchen on board The Imperator - a ship used by the German Imperial Family. It is reported that the Emperor of Germany was so impressed with the cuisine that he commented “I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of Chefs”.

His general philosophy on food had more far-reaching effects, in particular with regards to hygiene and work standards, which he found to be very poor in general. At the time, chefs were not highly regarded and it was Escoffier who made the profession more respectable by instilling a sense of pride in his subordinates. He also started the brigade system in his kitchenswhich is the practice of each section in the kitchen being run by a chef de partie (section head chef). He was also one of the first of the master chefs to take a true interest in the nutritional value foods.

Escoffier went on to write many articles and books on cooking, the most famous being Le Guide Culinaire and Ma Cuisine and in 1920, he was awarded the Legion of Honour for his services to French Cuisine.

Escoffier died aged 89 on February 12th, 1935 but in gastronomy circles, his legend lives on with the values he brought to to the art of cooking still in practice today.

17 notes Tags: food chef Chef Auguste Escoffier Culinary History modern cuisine

Dec 11 '11
FEATURED INGREDIENT :  OLIVE OIL Some say that the best olive oils come from the Mediterranean,  but whilst countries such as France, Greece, Italy,  and Spain all produce fine specimens, olive oil is also produced in many other countries such as Argentina, Australia, Egypt,  Israel,  Lebanon,  South Africa,  Tunisia, Turkey and New Zealand, with the largest producers worldwide being Spain, Italy, Greece, Portugal, Tunisia, Turkey, Syria. Origin and History of Olive Oil Olive oil is one of the oldest culinary oils. The olive tree is native to Asia Minor and was first thought to be cultivated in Syria about 6,000 years ago. It spread to the rest of the Mediterranean around 5,000 years ago and was being grown in Crete by 3,000 BC.  Both scriptural and classical writings refer to both the oil and the tree as  as a symbols of goodness, purity, peace and happiness. According to legend,  the first olive tree grew on Adam’s tomb and don’t forget olive branch brought to Noah on the ark  signaling the end of the flood.  In addition to its  culinary use,  the oil was burnt in the sacred lamps of temples, while the victor in the Olympic games was crowned with its leaves and by the time they were established in Egypt, they were so highly prized that  the great Tutankhamen had olive branches placed in his tomb.  The use of olive oil spread rapidly around the Mediterranean and across the ancient world and has been a foundation of the Mediterranean diet for thousands of years. Cultivation and Processing of Olive Oil Before we can talk fully about olive oil, mention must be made of the tree which produces the fruit from which it is extracted. Olive trees have a life span of 300 to 400 years and grow to a height of 6m/20 feet or more. Depending on the variety,  they produce fruit varying from green to black however, olive oil is only made from green olives and just as with wine, the flavour, colour, and consistency vary due to different olive types, location, and weather.  In order to achieve the finest quality olive oil, the fruit must be harvested at its optimum stage of ripeness and pressed within 72 hours. The best harvesting method is hand picking, but this is labour intensive which is reflected in the price. The reason for this is to prevent the fruit being bruised in the picking process which causes tartness and higher acidity.  Once picked, the traditional method of obtaining olive oil starts with the  crushing the washed and stemmed olives with huge stone wheels, however this has been surpassed by  commercial hydraulic machinery in many instances.  Whether traditional or modern, the process remains the same. Once crushed the paste is pressed, ensuring heat isn’t allowed to build up as this affects the flavour (cold pressing),  then the resulting liquid is separated into water and oil, nowadays often using a centrifugal separator.  The resulting oil from this first pressing is the best quality and designated the name “Extra Virgin”. That’s the basics, but olive oil grading is much more complicated so below are listed some of the types of oil with a brief explanation of the standards that have to be achieved for each type. Grades of Olive Oil Olive oil is graded according to its flavor, colour, and aroma, as well as its acidity. As mentioned above, many factors contribute to the overall quality, but below are the basic requirements for each type. Premium Select (fine) Extra-Virgin Olive Oil  This is the crème de la crème of olive oils.  It has a rate of acidity which is less than 1% with some as low as .225%. This level of quality is achieved through hand harvesting and cold pressing within 24 hours, thus ensuring the highest degree in both quality and taste. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil Any olive oil that is less than 1% acidity, produced by the first pressing of the olive fruit through the cold pressing process can be classed as an extra virgin oil but a word of warning - many extra virgin olive oils are extra virgin in name only, meeting only the minimum requirements. ‘Extra virgin’ is a chemical requirement that does not necessarily indicate quality or taste. In general, the deeper the colour, the more intense the olive oil flavor. Virgin Olive Oil This is made from olives which are slightly riper than those used for extra-virgin oil. Whilst it is still unrefined, it has a slightly higher level of acidity (1-1/2 to 2%) and is generally milder than extra virgin olive oil. Pure Olive Oil This is solvent-extracted from the olive pulp, skins, and pits then refined (also called commercial grade oil).   It is lighter in colour and blander than virgin olive oil. The word “pure” refers to the fact that no non-olive oils are added. Other than that, its mediocrity is such that it’s really not a worthy competitor for cupboard space. Buying and Storing Olive Oil When buying olive oil in bulk,  transfer into smaller containers, preferably to a  dark-coloured bottle as air, heat, and light will cause olive oil to turn rancid. Always store in a coolish, dark place and be sure containers are tightly sealed.  Avoid  plastic containers as the oil can absorb PVCs.  In very cold conditions, olive  oil may turn cloudy and even solidify, but it will clear again as it warms up, so cloudiness should not be taken as an indication that the oil isn’t still usable. Olive oil can be refrigerated but doing so will cause it to congeal and turn cloudy although it should not affect flavor.  Olive Oil and Health Due to its fatty acid composition, olive oil has a beneficial impact on controlling cholesterol levels and thus has a unique part to play in the prevention of cardiovascular disease. It is also believed that antioxidant substances such as vitamins E, K and polyphenols which are found in olive oil, delay aging and prevent carcinogenesis, liver disorders and inflammations.  It is very well tolerated by the stomach and is believed to lower the incidence of gallstone formation as well as promoting bone mineralisation, and is therefore excellent for those who have bone calcification problems.  All in all, a superb ingredient as far as health benefits are concerned. Olive Oil in Cooking Cooking with olive oil is like cooking with wine: never use an olive oil that does not taste or smell at its best.  Since olive oil is not distressed during extraction,  it’s very stable, especially for frying. Contrary to common belief, deterioration when frying is much lower in olive oil than in other oils. Try adding a little olive oil to the pan when a recipe calls for frying in butter. A higher temperature can be achieved with less fear of the butter burning. Also like wine, different flavours of olive oil are best suited to different uses. As a general guide, use a milder olive oil with grilled fish,  raw, cooked or steamed vegetables, soups and pasta sauces and use the fruity, stronger olive oils with grilled meats, pastas, cooked vegetables, cheeses and Bruschetta. But most of all EXPERIMENT. Olive oil can also be used very successfully in baking, replacing or reducing the need to use butter or margarine. Recipe with Olive Oil:  Salmon Carpaccio Ingredients: 1tbsp lemon juice 5 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 sprig Aniseed  Salt 300g/10oz Fresh Salmon, very thinly sliced (wafer thin) 2 Spring Onions, finely sliced  1 Tomato, finely diced 25g/1oz Capers Black Pepper French Bread to serve Instructions 1. In a small mixing bowl, mix together the lemon juice, oil,  salt and aniseed to make a sauce.  2. Place the salmon on a shallow serving dish then sprinkle the onions,  diced tomato and the capers evenly over the top. 3.  Drizzle the sauce over the top and season with black pepper. Serve immediately with French bread. Serves 4

FEATURED INGREDIENT :  OLIVE OIL

Some say that the best olive oils come from the Mediterranean,  but whilst countries such as France, Greece, Italy,  and Spain all produce fine specimens, olive oil is also produced in many other countries such as Argentina, Australia, Egypt,  Israel,  Lebanon,  South Africa,  Tunisia, Turkey and New Zealand, with the largest producers worldwide being Spain, Italy, Greece, Portugal, Tunisia, Turkey, Syria.

Origin and History of Olive Oil

Olive oil is one of the oldest culinary oils. The olive tree is native to Asia Minor and was first thought to be cultivated in Syria about 6,000 years ago. It spread to the rest of the Mediterranean around 5,000 years ago and was being grown in Crete by 3,000 BC. 

Both scriptural and classical writings refer to both the oil and the tree as  as a symbols of goodness, purity, peace and happiness. According to legend,  the first olive tree grew on Adam’s tomb and don’t forget olive branch brought to Noah on the ark  signaling the end of the flood. 

In addition to its  culinary use,  the oil was burnt in the sacred lamps of temples, while the victor in the Olympic games was crowned with its leaves and by the time they were established in Egypt, they were so highly prized that  the great Tutankhamen had olive branches placed in his tomb. 

The use of olive oil spread rapidly around the Mediterranean and across the ancient world and has been a foundation of the Mediterranean diet for thousands of years.

Cultivation and Processing of Olive Oil

Before we can talk fully about olive oil, mention must be made of the tree which produces the fruit from which it is extracted. Olive trees have a life span of 300 to 400 years and grow to a height of 6m/20 feet or more. Depending on the variety,  they produce fruit varying from green to black however, olive oil is only made from green olives and just as with wine, the flavour, colour, and consistency vary due to different olive types, location, and weather. 

In order to achieve the finest quality olive oil, the fruit must be harvested at its optimum stage of ripeness and pressed within 72 hours. The best harvesting method is hand picking, but this is labour intensive which is reflected in the price. The reason for this is to prevent the fruit being bruised in the picking process which causes tartness and higher acidity. 

Once picked, the traditional method of obtaining olive oil starts with the  crushing the washed and stemmed olives with huge stone wheels, however this has been surpassed by  commercial hydraulic machinery in many instances.  Whether traditional or modern, the process remains the same. Once crushed the paste is pressed, ensuring heat isn’t allowed to build up as this affects the flavour (cold pressing),  then the resulting liquid is separated into water and oil, nowadays often using a centrifugal separator. 

The resulting oil from this first pressing is the best quality and designated the name “Extra Virgin”. That’s the basics, but olive oil grading is much more complicated so below are listed some of the types of oil with a brief explanation of the standards that have to be achieved for each type.

Grades of Olive Oil

Olive oil is graded according to its flavor, colour, and aroma, as well as its acidity. As mentioned above, many factors contribute to the overall quality, but below are the basic requirements for each type.

Premium Select (fine) Extra-Virgin Olive Oil 

This is the crème de la crème of olive oils.  It has a rate of acidity which is less than 1% with some as low as .225%. This level of quality is achieved through hand harvesting and cold pressing within 24 hours, thus ensuring the highest degree in both quality and taste.

Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

Any olive oil that is less than 1% acidity, produced by the first pressing of the olive fruit through the cold pressing process can be classed as an extra virgin oil but a word of warning - many extra virgin olive oils are extra virgin in name only, meeting only the minimum requirements. ‘Extra virgin’ is a chemical requirement that does not necessarily indicate quality or taste. In general, the deeper the colour, the more intense the olive oil flavor.

Virgin Olive Oil

This is made from olives which are slightly riper than those used for extra-virgin oil. Whilst it is still unrefined, it has a slightly higher level of acidity (1-1/2 to 2%) and is generally milder than extra virgin olive oil.

Pure Olive Oil

This is solvent-extracted from the olive pulp, skins, and pits then refined (also called commercial grade oil).   It is lighter in colour and blander than virgin olive oil. The word “pure” refers to the fact that no non-olive oils are added. Other than that, its mediocrity is such that it’s really not a worthy competitor for cupboard space.

Buying and Storing Olive Oil

When buying olive oil in bulk,  transfer into smaller containers, preferably to a  dark-coloured bottle as air, heat, and light will cause olive oil to turn rancid. Always store in a coolish, dark place and be sure containers are tightly sealed.  Avoid  plastic containers as the oil can absorb PVCs. 

In very cold conditions, olive  oil may turn cloudy and even solidify, but it will clear again as it warms up, so cloudiness should not be taken as an indication that the oil isn’t still usable. Olive oil can be refrigerated but doing so will cause it to congeal and turn cloudy although it should not affect flavor. 

Olive Oil and Health

Due to its fatty acid composition, olive oil has a beneficial impact on controlling cholesterol levels and thus has a unique part to play in the prevention of cardiovascular disease.

It is also believed that antioxidant substances such as vitamins E, K and polyphenols which are found in olive oil, delay aging and prevent carcinogenesis, liver disorders and inflammations.  It is very well tolerated by the stomach and is believed to lower the incidence of gallstone formation as well as promoting bone mineralisation, and is therefore excellent for those who have bone calcification problems. 

All in all, a superb ingredient as far as health benefits are concerned.

Olive Oil in Cooking

Cooking with olive oil is like cooking with wine: never use an olive oil that does not taste or smell at its best. 

Since olive oil is not distressed during extraction,  it’s very stable, especially for frying. Contrary to common belief, deterioration when frying is much lower in olive oil than in other oils. Try adding a little olive oil to the pan when a recipe calls for frying in butter. A higher temperature can be achieved with less fear of the butter burning.

Also like wine, different flavours of olive oil are best suited to different uses. As a general guide, use a milder olive oil with grilled fish,  raw, cooked or steamed vegetables, soups and pasta sauces and use the fruity, stronger olive oils with grilled meats, pastas, cooked vegetables, cheeses and Bruschetta. But most of all EXPERIMENT.

Olive oil can also be used very successfully in baking, replacing or reducing the need to use butter or margarine.

Recipe with Olive Oil:  Salmon Carpaccio

Ingredients:

1tbsp lemon juice

5 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 sprig Aniseed 

Salt

300g/10oz Fresh Salmon, very thinly sliced (wafer thin)

2 Spring Onions, finely sliced 

1 Tomato, finely diced

25g/1oz Capers

Black Pepper

French Bread to serve

Instructions

1. In a small mixing bowl, mix together the lemon juice, oil,  salt and aniseed to make a sauce. 

2. Place the salmon on a shallow serving dish then sprinkle the onions,  diced tomato and the capers evenly over the top.

3.  Drizzle the sauce over the top and season with black pepper. Serve immediately with French bread.

Serves 4

180 notes Tags: food ingredient food origins olive oil gastronomy culinary arts cooking food history culinary history